by Anne Swardson | Apr 19, 2026 | Architecture, covid, France, Paris, Walking
I knew as soon as I saw the apartment that we should buy it. Not because of how it looked. It was nice enough, but needed a total redo of the space. What really sold me was what I saw out the window. Across the way, a woman was doing calisthenics–on her balcony.... 
by Anne Swardson | Mar 29, 2022 | covid, France, Paris
I saw something startling in the grocery store the other day: A human face. It was a consequence of the government’s recent decision to lift many COVID-19 restrictions. Most notable among them: the requirement that masks be worn in public indoor places,... 
by Anne Swardson | Sep 20, 2021 | covid, France
I recently returned from the U.S., where the talk was of breakthrough infections, vaccine reluctance, rising cases and unmasked citizens coughing on the masked. It was a relief to get back to France, which, after some false starts, seems to have gotten the balance... 
by Anne Swardson | Aug 9, 2021 | covid, France
In my 25 years in Paris, I’ve always resisted the temptation to declare the city “empty.” Not in August, not during the pandemic. No matter how many people have fled or can’t enter, there were always enough residents and visitors to occupy the cafés, shop at the... 
by Anne Swardson | May 19, 2021 | covid, France
It was the most-awaited day in France since the pandemic began: Restaurants and cafés could finally open. Closed by government decree since Oct. 26, eating and watering and caffeinating places had survived only by offering takeout, and by a dose of government aid. For... 
by Anne Swardson | May 10, 2021 | covid, France
I made my third circuit around Paris the other day. The first, a few years ago, was on foot, over 16 weekend days. The second, just after the second COVID lockdown ended last fall, was by bike. This trip was on the Paris tram system, which encircles almost all of the...