Garbage In, Garbage Out
During our years in Paris, I've always downplayed France’s frequent strike and demonstrations, especially when I’m asked whether people should cancel their planned trips. No, I say. That’s still true this time around, even though masses of French people are protesting...
For the Love of Gardens
It's getting warm in Paris, after a winter that seemed grayer and colder than usual (with apologies to those experiencing blizzards, flash floods and the like in the U.S.). I love walking around the parks and seeing preparations for the blooming season. Every time I...
The French Are Not Shy About Retiring
There is a genre of French film that rarely crosses the Atlantic but is very popular here. The theme: the hell of the workplace and the nightmare of layoffs. I count at least 15 movies on that topic in the past few decades, most featuring laid-off employees fighting...
A Piece of Childhood Comes Home
One of the few drawbacks of living in Paris is the feeling of being separated from your roots. I don’t mean family, who can almost always visit or be visited. I mean not being in the place where most of my cultural references were formed. Instead, I live where aging...
Down and Out in the City of Light
A beggar, looked at realistically, is simply a businessman, getting his living, like other businessmen, in the way that comes to hand. He has not, more than most modern people, sold his honour; he has merely made the mistake of choosing a trade at which it is...
‘French’ vs ‘Moroccan’? It’s Complicated at the World Cup
In Paris, celebrations, demonstrations and riots tend to take place on the Champs-Elysées — but usually not all at once. Saturday was an exception. The excitement began in early evening, after Morocco defeated soccer powerhouse Portugal 1-0 to qualify for the...
The Best Food Market in Paris
Scratch a Parisian, and they will tell you why the food market where they shop is the best. Tourist guides also make recommendations, such as here, here and here. Open-air food markets are an essential part of cooking and no one who wants fresh, tasty ingredients...
Going With the Flow in Paris
I’ve always thought of Paris as a city that flows, and not just because a river runs through it. Living here teaches you a kind of malleability and adaptability, in transport and otherwise, that is arguably less present in my confrontational native land. Driving in...
All of Paris Stops Here
Second of two parts This post has been corrected, see below. To some people, the symbol of Paris is the Eiffel Tower. To others, it’s the Arc de Triomphe or the Louvre. To me, the symbol of Paris is a train station: The Gare du Nord, North Station. It represents...
Train Station Or Shopping Mall?
First of two parts Paris train stations and I have never gotten along. Years ago, for instance, I was leaving on a ski vacation with my kids, then little, and my parents, then healthy. For some unaccountable reason, I decided we should take the Métro to the gare where...