At a Snail’s Pace

At a Snail’s Pace

Originally published in The American Scholar On the evening of March 6, 2020, French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife, Brigitte, went to the theater. They saw a performance of Par le Bout du Nez, By the Tip of the Nose, about a French president who has an itch...
The Void at the Eiffel Tower

The Void at the Eiffel Tower

This month marks what would be, in normal times, the start of the Paris tourist season. The British half-term, the American spring vacation, the German winter break, all happen close to now. Chinese and Japanese tour groups arrive too, as the weather warms and the sun...
Is Paris Half-Full or Half-Empty?

Is Paris Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The question of whether Paris is still alive isn’t just a philosophical issue, even in a country that cherishes les philosophes. For almost a year, the most central and touristic parts of the of the city have been largely devoid of people, driven away by lockdowns,...
How My Father Deconstructed Paris

How My Father Deconstructed Paris

My dad loved everything about Paris, but he especially enjoyed its residents’ daily struggle to get from one place to another. With his little camera – what kind? So many things I wish I’d asked him – and its telephoto function, he’d focus on cyclists, or...
Three Strikes for the French Government

Three Strikes for the French Government

For months, I bragged to my friends in the U.S. that France’s COVID vaccination program would be rapid, efficient and well-run, in keeping with its national health system. Silly me. The vaccination rollout here has been nothing short of a disaster. It’s replete with...

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