‘French’ vs ‘Moroccan’? It’s Complicated at the World Cup
In Paris, celebrations, demonstrations and riots tend to take place on the Champs-Elysées — but usually not all at once. Saturday was an exception. The excitement began in early evening, after Morocco defeated soccer powerhouse Portugal 1-0 to qualify for the...
The Best Food Market in Paris
Scratch a Parisian, and they will tell you why the food market where they shop is the best. Tourist guides also make recommendations, such as here, here and here. Open-air food markets are an essential part of cooking and no one who wants fresh, tasty ingredients...
Going With the Flow in Paris
I’ve always thought of Paris as a city that flows, and not just because a river runs through it. Living here teaches you a kind of malleability and adaptability, in transport and otherwise, that is arguably less present in my confrontational native land. Driving in...
All of Paris Stops Here
Second of two parts This post has been corrected, see below. To some people, the symbol of Paris is the Eiffel Tower. To others, it’s the Arc de Triomphe or the Louvre. To me, the symbol of Paris is a train station: The Gare du Nord, North Station. It represents...
Train Station Or Shopping Mall?
First of two parts Paris train stations and I have never gotten along. Years ago, for instance, I was leaving on a ski vacation with my kids, then little, and my parents, then healthy. For some unaccountable reason, I decided we should take the Métro to the gare where...
The Back of Backstage at the Opera
We had walked by it many times, and the hidden treasures inside had always intrigued us, especially since they were stored in what looked to be a dilapidated old armory. The building, in fact, was on the site of a fortified wall that had ringed Paris in 1841, under...
How I Rediscovered Paris
The joy of my return to Paris after two months away began with a movie on the airplane. “Diplomatie,” a 2014 Franco-German production, is set on the night of August 24, 1944. Nazi General Dietrich von Choltitz, recently arrived as governor of occupied Paris, is under...
Hiding in Plain Sight
Originally published in Something Is Going to Happen, the blog of Ellery Queen Mystery Magazine. My short story, "Uncaged," will appear in the magazine next week. My husband and I have lived in three neighborhoods since we moved to Paris 26 years ago. Each time we...
The Magic Mountain
Like many Americans who are long-timers in France, I’m often asked what led me to choose a life overseas. There are many reasons. But the origin story begins on an Alpine peak in Switzerland. I spent my high-school junior year in Leysin, a village in the...
The French Language, Unmanned
The appointment of France’s new prime minister – or perhaps I should say prime ministress – has touched off a linguistic debate that many think should have been settled long ago. President Emmanuel Macron, who was elected to a second five-year term last month, last...